Equa Blog - News, Views and Ethical Styling...
As the weather gets colder it's so easy to end up with a wardrobe full of dull sludgy greys or black and more black. The Marcy Pod Dress by People Tree gives a welcome pop of colour. It's made from a beautiful handwoven fabric in deep fig with a geometric pattern in burnt orange and magenta. It is produced by People Tree in conjunction with artisans from the group Folk Bangladesh who work to bring employment opportunities, design and technical support to disadvantaged people living in remote areas of Bangladesh. Hand weaving fabric is estimated to save 1 ton of C02 emissions per year per hand loom. Here we have teamed this dress with the following items:
For this month's designer interview I would like to extend a very warm welcome to Laura Queening from the gorgeous fair trade accessories label Aura Que.
In a previous post I mentioned just how much I love these bags with their hand knitted banana yarn panels..
In a nutshell what was your initial motivation for becoming involved in ethical fashion?
During my final year at Cordwainers at London College of Fashion, I wanted to work with small producer groups in a more personal and ethical way. So I sourced fair trade producers in Nepal, a place that I loved after my gap year teaching English in a rural village there.
After I graduated in 2007, I was involved in the LCF Shared Talent Fair Trade Project in Johannesburg, South Africa and designed a collection of recycled leather handbags for the Oxfam Boutique. Then I decided that I wanted to create my own brand with my links in Nepal, launching AURA QUE for Autumn/Winter 2008.
What does ethical fashion mean to you?
For me, it means that considerations are made during the design and production process, to work with producers that are treated fairly, enabling them to support their families and also to source materials that are more sustainable where possible. In developing countries like Nepal, fair employment helps people to help themselves.
With AURA QUE, it is not possible at the moment to get a perfectly ethical supply chain, but every material and manufacturer is carefully considered with regards to ethics, design and cost. The social fair trade aspect is of primary concern to me – working directly with all my producers, and using handmade local materials and production that create more employment opportunities.
What challenges do you face as an ethical label?
I am working with some fantastic Nepalese people and producer groups and as with most labels, it is a constant challenge to meet production deadlines and maintain quality control. When working on new designs, it is a joint effort between myself and the sample makers Kumar and Arjun, working out the best way to make the product with the factory’s technical equipment and skills.
What are the inspirations behind this season's collection?
The new A/W Collection incorporates the signature AURA QUE look combining leather with textured handknitted panels, with inspiration from various pieces of formal menswear and details drawn from leather braces, high collars and jackets. I also wanted to get a very asymmetric but practical look this season with many of the bags having versatile handles and straps.
What advice would you give anyone looking to make their wardrobe more ethical?
There is a lot out there now! Not only with some great new independent designer labels, but also ethical collections on the high street. It is also about caring for your clothing and accessories so they last longer, as well as investing long term in quality products.
What is the most treasured item in your wardrobe and where did it come from?
When I was travelling through Spain and Morocco in 2001, I bought a bleached denim jacket which I still wear nine years later, though it’s acquired a few rips on the elbows along the way…
As a child what did you want to do when you grew up?
Aah I could never decide, I think I went from wanting to be an air hostess, to a doctor, bio chemist, architect and then handbag designer…I’m glad I am doing what I am doing now!
Tell us something you are really excited about...
I am really excited to be going back to Nepal soon, to work on my new A/W 2011 collection – I spend about 4 or 5 months of the year out there - I love it!
What's next for your label?
AURA QUE is gaining momentum with the leather/knit bags and accessories – and we are looking to create a classic leather range, and eventually launch a unisex range – all a work in progress!
Thank you Laura!
To view Equa's collection of Aura Que bags click here >>
Welcome to a new section in the Equa blog. Once a month we will be featuring an interview with one of the amazing designers that supply Equa with our beautiful ethical clothing. For our very first interview we feel privileged to have Nieves Ruiz from Bibico.
Bibico is a design-led fair trade company that loves simple, easy-to-wear clothes that make you look and feel delightful. Each garment is stitched or knitted by women who work in co-operatives that are certified by the World Fair Trade Organisation.
Image:Bibico, Autumn Winter 2010
In a nutshell what was your initial motivation for becoming involved in ethical fashion?
After working for more than 11 years as a designer for the high street I was sick & tired of the direction that the fashion industry was taking so I decided that I didn’t want to be part of it and I quit my job in London.
After deliberating about other careers and directions I decided to apply my knowledge on the fashion industry combined with the skills of women from underprivileged backgrounds and Bibico was born.
What does ethical fashion mean to you?
It means fashion that gives back......fashion that you wear because you love it and that makes you feel even better because you know that a big percentage of what it takes to make the garment goes directly to the development of the community that make it.
What challenges do you face as an ethical designer?
There are plenty.....I come from 11 years as a designer on the high street so I can honestly say that as ethical designers we don't have it easy. The biggest challenges are the lead times and the minimum quantities set up for production.
Regarding lead times as ethical fashion=slow fashion things take much longer and it is very hard to compete with the high street. Whilst a normal high street brand brings new items every 2 days an ethical brand takes 4 to 8 months. Everything from the making of the fabric to the stitching of the garments takes much longer and there is not much we can do about it apart from planning ahead of schedule!!
Regarding minimum quantities the consumption of fabrics & clothes is so high that the producers of yarn & trims have set up their own minimums for productions very, very, very high thinking that we are all Arcadia, Gap or Zara so it is never easy to find someone that wants to supply you.
What are your inspirations for this season’s collection?
Warm cosy weekends away in the country side wrapped up with chunky knits over pretty floral & lacy dresses.
What advice would you give anyone looking to make their wardrobe more ethical?
Please come on board and you will be impressed by the long lasting quality of the ethical products. Also look around as there is plenty to choose from including all budgets & styles.
Once you are in, it will be hard to look back at the fast-fashion and you will finally realize that ethical fashion is possible and that it doesn’t cost the earth nor your wallet.
Who are your Style Icons?
I don’t have any really, it is very weird in the fashion world but honestly I believe in pretty nice pieces & I believe in independent unique people that wear what they wear because they love it.
What is the most treasured item in your wardrobe and where did it come from?
The hand knitted bolero from Bibico’s winter 09 collection. It is the update of the Aran cable in a fashionable, stylish, cute way....I wear it all year round and it is always a key piece in my looks....
It comes from the hills of Nepal where my ladies hand knits all our collections. I do the prototype but they are much better & faster than me so I give all the production to them.
In case you are curious, by popular demand this piece will be back in our winter 2011 range.
As a child what did you want to do when you grew up?
I wanted to be an architect or a singer. So I always had the creative side to me but later on in life I realize that my voice was far too masculine & that numbers and calculations were not my cup of tea so that is why I decided to apply my creative side into fashion.
Tell us something you are really excited about…
I am very excited to see the potential of ethical fashion and to realize that thanks to our hard work there are communities improving their lives....... this is what keeps me going....sometimes with all the hard work & all the dramas I forget about it, but every time I go and stay with my ladies I see the changes and the improvements in their communities and there is nothing more exciting that contributing to a better world!!!
Tell us something that really gets on your nerves….
The consumption of fast fashion at ridiculous cheap prices & the lack of a clear message between all the ethical organizations.
What's next for your label?
We are working hard to introduce fairtrade cotton in our collections. Our aim is summer 2011 and by then we will be 100% ethical.
Image: Bibico, Autumn Winter 2010
Thank you Nieves!
To view the current Bibico Collection at Equa click here >>
This month's windows are all about the accessories. I took inspiration from Terra Plana's Dida shoes which are made using relcaimed quilt fabric from Pakistan and brought in a vintage patchwork quilt to add to the theme. The coral sections on the quilt are a hot colour for this summer and set off the organic silk Elenora Dress by Amana perfectly.Thalia x
Equa are sponsoring a fantastic ethical fashion show at London's Victoria & Albert Museum on Sunday 9th November. The show is part of the V&A's Conscious Style day, an event to explore the growing popularity of ethical fashion with swishing, styling workshops, talks and the fashion show all taking place in the V&A's brand new Sackler Centre for education. Featuring in the show will be Amana's Zahire Dress (pictured bottom) and a dress made by Wildlifeworks in conjunction with the RSPCA (pictured top). Other pieces by labels such as Noir, People Tree, Stuart & Brown and Del Forte will be shown alongside gorgeous shoes from Terra Plana.
Events begin at 10.30 am finishing with the fashion show at 4pm. All events are free but some are ticketed due to limited places. Tickets for the fashion show are available from 1pm, so best get there early!
The fabulous bronze Hobo Dress by London designer Julia Smith, now avaliable at Equa, features in this week's Grazia magazine.
For Equa’s debut Outfit of the Month I have chosen a nautical theme. A classic for spring/summer and a theme I never seem to grow tired of!
The Retro Stripe Tee by Kuyichi. It has an irregular stripe in the weave which gives it a subtle texture. I also like the continuous binding which runs from the neck line, along the shoulder seams and round each armhole. A great longer length tee, in a larger size I would also wear this like a dress with leggings.
The Regent Jacket from Edun. A gorgeous cropped lightweight jacket. The zips on the arms have the Edun signature leaf detail.
Cute Sailor Slouch Pants in Fair-trade Foundation certified organic cotton jersey by Annie Greenabelle. I love the mismatched reclaimed buttons which run in two rows down the front of a fold-down waistband. These are super comfortable and are a chic alternative to tracksuit bottoms when you are in a slouchy mood.
Made Sauda Bracelet (both white and black worn here). Comprised of brass, wood and bone. The wood and bone are collected from the ground on foraging trips by the artisans who make them, so no animals or trees are harmed!
Terra Plana Himalaya Heels. What can I say? Coral red, Fabulous! Thalia x
